Coat with detachable lining



June 1, 1943. J. REITER COAT WITH DETACHABLE LINING -2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Feb. '3, 1942 IN V EN TOR.

June 1, 1943.

| J. REITER 2,320,950

COAT WITH DETACHABLE LINING Filed Feb. 3, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented June 1, 1943 UNITE ENT OFFICE 3 Claims.

The present invention is directed to garments, more particularly, to coats wherein there is provided a detachable lining thereby rendering the garments suitable for use in various types of Weather.

Detachable linings for over-coats have heretofore been proposed and used. Such linings consistessentially of a body portion and a sleeve portion attached to the body only in part. It was customary to secure the shoulder portion of the sleeve lining to the shoulder of the body portion either by stitching or detachably. The major portion of the armhole was left unattached, with the exception that the underarm portions of the sleeve lining and body were secured together either by stitching or detachably. This construction was apparently considered to be necessary in the prior art in order to allow a sufficient freedom of movement of the wearer without causing binding. However, such a construction was disadvantageous in that the lining had two relatively long slits at the area of junction of the sleeve and body. This rendered it diflicult to insert the arm into the right position, as very frequently the hand would pass through one of the openings and the tendency to tear the lining was considerable because of this.

The present invention is intended and adapted to overcome the disadvantages of prior constructions of this kind and to provide a coat lining having a sleeve permanently stitched thereto. The construction is such that although the sleeve and body of the lining are formed. as a unit, there is no binding caused by movements of the wearer.

In practicing the present invention I provide a coat of the usual construction having the body portion and sleeves permanently stitched thereto. The coat'itself may be of any suitable type, such'as the box or raglan coat. The lining member which is made separately from the coat, consists of a body lining and a sleeve lining stitched together. The lining is provided at the front edges thereof and over the shoulders and neck portions, with a liningof zippers which cooperates with a similar line of zippers placed in corresponding positions on the interior of the coat, whereby'the lining is detachably secured thereto.

My new construction is directed to the manner in which the sleeve lining is secured to the body lining. I provide a pleated insert which is interposed between the sleeve and body linings at the armhole, the pleated insert being secured by its respective edges to the respective edges of the corresponding armhole portions. The insert extends from a point below the shoulders of the lining and is continuous over the lower portion of the armhole. Its greatest width is at the lowest point and it narrows at both the front and back of the armhole as it approaches the shoulder of the garment. The pleat may be formed by an ironing operation, and in cross-section appears as V-shape.

In the accompanying drawings constituting a part hereof, and in which like reference characters indicate like parts:

Fig. 1 is a fragmentary elevational view of a portion of a coat lining detached from the coat itself and illustrating the nature of the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary elevational view of the lining showing the sleeve thereof slightly raised to illustrate the construction;

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2, but showing the rear portion of the armhole structure;

Fig. 4 is a horizontal cross-sectional view taken along the line 4-4 of Fig. 1 at a point where there is no pleated expansion member;

Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional View taken along the line 5-5 of Fig. 2 showing the insert in its most extended position;

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 5, but showing the relative position of the insert and the armhole of the coat when the sleeve is in approximately its lowest position;

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 2 showing the box type of lining instead of the raglan type;

Fig. 8 is a View of a pattern for the pleated insert, and

Fig. 9 shows the same stitched together to com plete the insert.

In practicing the invention there is provided a lining having a body portion l with armholes 2 formed therein extending to the neck 3, thereby providing a raglan type of lining. Along the front edge 4 of the lining is a line of zippers 5 whereby the lining may be held in the coat. The sleeves 6 extend over the shoulder 1 and are stitched into the edge 4 to complete the lining.

The sleeve 6 has at its armhole portion a binding 8 stitched thereto. Body portion 1 has an interlining 9 stitched thereto, as shown in Figs. 4, 5 and 6. The pleated insert [0 has one edge stitched at l l into the lining and interlining, and has the opposite edge thereof stitched to sleeve lining 6 at l2. At the junction [4 of the lining body portion and neck, the insert in is stitched into the shoulder portion at l3, such stitching extending to point l5 of Fig. 2. The insert I0 is narrowest at point 15 and gradually widens to the armpit portion I6. A crease I9 is formed in pleat ID to cause it to maintain its proper position. If desired, instead of a crease the insert may be formed in several pieces stitched together along the line [9 to provide the same result.

In Fig. 7 there is shown a modification of the construction in which the lining is of the box type. There is provided a body lining 2| with armholes 22 and shoulder 23 integrally formed therewith. Sleeve linings 24 have armhole portions 25 corresponding with armholes 22. The junction of armholes 22 and 25 is made in accordance with the construction shown in Figs. 1 to 6.

When the lining is placed within a coat, the zippers are interlocked in the usual manner and the sleeve linings 6 are introduced into the sleeves of the coat. In Fig. 6 the relative positions of the coat and lining are shown. Coat sleeve 26 and coat body 2! meet at the armpit 28. sleeve is in approximately the lowest position the sleeve lining 6 is as shown in Fig. 6. The armpit 28 extends into the space between pleat l9 and lining 5. Thereby the wearer is comfortable when the sleeve is in its lower position. The sleeve lining is provided with a button-hole 29 which cooperates with a button inside of the coat sleeve to hold the sleeve lining in proper position.

In the embodiment shown in Figs. 8 and 9, the insert is composed of two Y-shaped pieces 38 and 3 I having corresponding upper legs 32 and 33. The tops 34 and 35 thereof are stitched together and the assembly folded along line 36. The corresponding inside edges 37 and 38 of each Y are stitched together and a binding tape 39 may, if desired, be used for this purpose. The front M] of the insert as shown in Fig. 9 is generally shorter than the rear portion.

Upon the wearer raising his arm, both the coat lining and sleeves are raised, the pleat i9 is opened up independently of the coat itself, and assumes the position shown in Fig. 5. Thereby, the coat itself is not moved except after a considerable amount of extension of the pleat has taken place. This independent movement of the sleeve lining renders the movements by the wearer quite comfortable and without any binding at all. A

When the further advantage of the present construction is that the wearer has no difiiculty in inserting his hands and arms, and there is no danger of tearing of the coat lining. Also, because of the use of a fabric insert and thus a complete closing of the armhole, the garment is considerably warmer than those of the prior art.

The specific description is intended to illustrate the nature of the invention and not to limit the same. The construction may be incorporated in other types of coats as, for example, the semifltted or belt models. In place of a zipper for attaching the lining to the coat, other fastening means, such as buttons and button holes may be used. The armholes may be of various shapes, including rounded, V-shaped, and others. Instead of the insert terminating below the shoulder, it may gradually narrow into the neckline of the lining in front and back.

These and other changes may be made within the spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined by the claims appended hereto.

What is claimed is:

1. In a coat having a body portion and sleeves stitched thereto, the improvement which comprises a lining member independent of said coat and comprising a body lining and a sleeve lining, said member adapted to be inserted into said coat and detachably secured thereto, said sleeve lining being stitched to said body lining for a relatively short distance at the shoulder thereof and being unattached over the major portion of the armhole of said lining, a pleated insert interposed between said linings, the edges of said insert being stitched to the respective edges of said linings, said insert being composed of two similar pieces of fabric of Y shape, each said piece being folded longitudinally along its centerline, the corresponding top edges of said pieces being stitched together and the two inner edges of each Y being stitched together to complete the pleat, said folded pieces being in the form of a U in which the outer edges are united, the inner edges of said U being stitched to the respective edges of said sleeve and body linings, said insert being V-shaped in crosssection and extending around the armhole and up to the shoulder of said lining.

2. In a coat having a body portion and sleeves stitched thereto, the improvement which comprises a lining member independent of said coat and comprising a body lining and a sleeve lining, said member adapted to be inserted into said coat and detachably secured thereto, said sleeve lining being stitched to said body lining for a relatively short distance at the shoulder thereof and being unattached over the major portion of the armhole of said lining, a pleated insert interposed between said linings, the edges of said insert being stitched to the respective edges of said linings, said insert being in the form of a U and being of two layers of fabric, said layers being united along the outer edges of said U and being free along the inner edges thereof, said inner edges of said U being stitched to the respective edges of said sleeve and body linings, said insert being V- shaped in cross-section and extending around the armhole and up to the shoulder of said lining.

3. In a coat having a body portion and sleeves stitched thereto, the improvement which comprises a lining member independent of said coat and comprising a body lining and a sleeve lining, said member adapted to be inserted into said coat and detachably secured thereto, said sleeve lining being stitched to said body lining for a relatively short distance at the shoulder thereof and being unattached over the major portion of the armhole of said lining, a pleated insert interposed between said linings, the edges of said insert being stitched to the respective edges of said linings, said insert being in the form of a U and being of two layers of fabric, said layers being united along the outer edges of said U and being free along the inner edges thereof, said inner edges of said U being stitched to the respective edges of said sleeve and body linings, said insert being V-shaped in cross-section and extending around the armhole and up to the shoulder of said lining, the front of said insert being shorter than the rear thereof.

LENA J. REITER. 

